OPERATION
AVOIDING
KICKBACK
I
Always
use
the
correct
blade
depth
setting.
The
top
of
the
blade
teeth
should
clear
the
workpiece
by
1/8
in.
to
1/4
in.
•
Inspect
the
work
for
knots
or
nails
before
beginning
a
cut.
Knock
out
any
loose
knots
with
a
hammer.
Never
saw
into
a
loose
knot
or
nail.
I
Always
use
the
rip
fence
when
rip
cutting
and the
miter
gauge
when
cross
cutting.
This
helps
prevent
twisting
the
wood
in
the
cut.
•
Always
use
clean,
sharp,
and
properly
set
blades.
Never
make
cuts
with
dull
blades.
I
To
avoid pinching
the
blade,
support
the
work
properly
before
beginning
a
cut.
2
When
making
a
cut,
use
steady,
even
pressure.
Never
force
cuts.
2
Do
not
cut
wet or
warped
lumber.
2
Always
hold
your
workpiece
firmly
with
both
hands
or
with
push sticks.
Keep
your
body
in
a
balanced
position
to
be
ready
to
resist
kickback should
it
occur.
Never
stand
directly
in
line
with
the
blade.
•
Use
the
right
type
of
blade
for
the
cut
being
made.
CUTTING
AIDS
See
Figure
53.
Push
sticks
are
devices
used
for
safely
pushing a
workpiece
through
the blade
instead
of
using
your
hands.
They
can
be
made
in
various
sizes
and
shapes
from
scrap
wood
to
use
in
a
specific
project.
The
stick
must
be
narrower
than
the
workpiece,
with
a
90°
notch
in
one
end
and shaping
for
a
grip
on
the
other
end.
A
push
block
has
a
handle
fastened
by
recessed
screws
from
the
underside.
Be
sure
the
screw
is
recessed.
Use
it
on
non-through
cuts.
FEATHERBOARD
A
featherboard
is
a
device
used
to
help
control
the
workpiece
by
guiding
it
securely
against
the
table
or
rip
fence.
Feather-
boards
are especially
useful
when
ripping
small
workpieces
and
for
completing
non-through
cuts.
The
end
is
angled,
with
a
number
of
short
kerts
to
give
a
friction
hold on
the
workpiece.
Lock
it
in
place
on
the
table
with
a
C-clamp.
Test
that
it
can
resist
kickback
by
restricting
the
forward
motion
of
the
workpiece.
A
WARNING:
Place
the
featherboard
against
the
uncut
portion
of
the
blade,
to
avoid
kickback
that
could
cause
serious
personal
injury.
PUSH
STICKS
LOCKS
o)
1-13/16
in.
-I
Fig.
53
Fig.
54
OPERATION
HOW
TO
MAKE
A
FEATHERBOARD
See
Figures
54
-
55.
The
featherboard
is
an
excellent
project
for
your
saw.
Select
a
solid
piece
of
lumber
approximately
3/4
in.
thick,
3-5/8
in.
wide
and
24
in.
long.
Mark
the
center
of
the
width
on
one
end
of
the
stock.
Miter
one-half
of
the
width
to
30°
and
miter
the
other
half
of
the
same
end
to
45°.
See
page
33
for
information
on
miter
cuts.
Mark
the
board
from
the
point
at
6
in.
Prepare
the
saw
for
ripping
as
discussed
on
page
34.
Set
the
rip
fence
to
allow
approximately
a
1/4
in.
“finger
to
be
cut
in
the
stock.
Feed
the
stock
only
to
the
mark
previ
ously
made
at
6
in.
Turn
the
saw
OFF
and
allow
the
blade
to
completely
stop
rotating
before
removing
the
stock.
Reset
the
rip
fence
and
cut
spaced
rips
into
the
workpiece
to
allow
approximately
1/4
in.
fingers
and
1/8
in.
spaces
between
the
fingers.
A
WARMNG:
The
featherboard
must
be
installed
in
front
of
the
blade.
Do
not
locate
the
featherboard
to
the
rear
of
the
blade.
Kickback
can
result
from
the
featherboard
pinching
the
workpiece
and
binding
the
blade
in
the
saw
kerf
if
positioned
improperly.
Failure
to
heed
this
warning
can
result
in
serious
personal
injury.
HOW
TO
MAKE
AN
AUXILIARY
FENCE
FOR
THE
RIP
FENCE
See
Figure
56.
Three
mounting
holes
are
provided
in
the
rip
fence
for
attaching
an
auxiliary
fence
when
using
dado
blades,
feather-
boards
or
other
jigs
and
fixtures.
Select
a
solid
piece
of
lumber
approximately
3/4
in.
thick
and
nearly
the
same
length
as
the
rip
fence.
To
fasten the
auxiliary
fence
to
the
2-1/2
in.
wood
screws
(not
included).
rip
fence,
use
three
Fig.
56
Fig.
55
WOOD
SCREW
---
RIP
FENCE
32
33
(10 paginas)
(34 paginas)
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